Back to Estonia... In Tallinn, I didn't know what to do with myself. The city and the people were lovely, and my AirBnB was great, although I originally planned to couch surf. I presumed that a little company would give my stay a little sparkle. The people I had written to were all busy doing other things; I decided to explore the city on my own. I was a bit relieved. I was beginning to realise that another random connection would not necessarily solve my problem. However, I also knew that my...

This island is an incredibly beautiful place. There was everything I needed to live and much more. My hosts took good care of me and provided all the tips I might have needed. The end of autumn was already noticeable. The light had a winter quality and the nights were freezing. The rhythm of life, dictated by the fire, did not lose its appeal for the whole week.

I walked to the nearest town: 6.9 kilometres. I would never have done this voluntarily four weeks ago. It took me only an hour, in Poland it had been three more for the same distance. Well, an hour was still 6 minutes more than I had calculated and so I came too late for my bus. Here on the island came the buses on time or too early, I was told. I ran only pro forma to the bus stop but behold. There he was. The bus to Panga. I went in; the bus driver spoke good English (after Poland and...

The next morning I stayed in bed. The room had cooled down pleasantly, and I had no desire to find out if it was as nice outside. From my bed, I could see some indications that it wasn't. There was once again no sky visible. I regretted a little that I had not gone out again the previous evening to enjoy the spectacular night sky. After spending four more hours reading and drinking tea in bed, I decided to write some more. When I couldn't lie or sit anymore, I went outside and walked the few...

Estonia greeted me with a bright blue sky. I hadn't seen anything like it for a week. I usually adjusted my expectations quickly to the circumstances and show no desire for better weather. But when I was sitting in the sun, I had to admit that there was nothing nicer than this. I stayed put, held my nose into the warm light, and closed my eyes, breathing in and out. This was good. All the stress travelling brought faded into the back of my mind. The greyness that had occupied my mind for the...